Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Exchange in Istanbul: Trip around Turkey

Not much has happened since I last wrote. Studying is going on but this week we have holiday because of Kurban Bayramı or Eid al-Adha as it is known in other parts of Muslim world. I planned to travel this week but unfortunately I was too late for buying bus tickets, everything was sold out on the dates I planned to travel. So I'm staying this week in Istanbul and see the sights I haven't visited yet. During my time in here I have usually visited every weekend in some new places in the city. I visited in Basilica Cistern which is underground palace with water covering the floor. I don't really understand what is so special in it, I think it was quite boring place. Grand Bazaar is grand but very touristic, so is smaller Spice Bazaar also. Eating fish bread in Eminönü is however recommendable touristic activity, but buy the bread from the boats, not from Galata Bridge restaurants. In Ortaköy I went taste the best kumpirs in city. Kumpirs are baked potatos with all kinds of things in it, so delicious! Ortaköy's famous waffles however were expensive but worth of trying. Otherwise my weekends have been full of partying like it should be during Erasmus exchange, good places to go are places like Eski Beyrut and Araf, no entrance fee and quite cheap beer. 

 But now I will write about my trip around Turkey which I made before university started. 
So I started my trip with shuttle bus from Baghdad Street to Ümraniye bus station which is on the Asian side of Istanbul so most travellers don't use it. I used bus company called Kâmil Koç. In Ümraniye there is no traditional bus station but every company has their own station. When I arrived I was first quite confused how everything was working but soon I figured out that I should just wait patiently and everything will work out fine. And so happened, my bus came just in time and then I was on my way to Ankara. Buses are quite luxurious in Turkey, you get free drinks & snacks on the way and there is always tv (but signal is mostly bad). I arrived to Ankara in late afternoon. I took metro from bus station to centre and found my hostel easily, it was located very near of metro station. I didn't visit any interesting place because Ankara was just resting stop for me on my way to Cappadocia. I walked around centre, went to eat and tried to buy medicines in pharmacy and that was my experience for that evening of Ankara.

After nice breakfast in hostel I went back to bus station and took bus towards Göreme which is the touristic centre of Cappadocia region. Cappadocia is famour for it's rock formations called fairy chimneys and many of them host carved caves where people used to live or they were churched or other holy places. From Ankara I used bus company called Nevşehir Seyahat. On the way to Göreme we passed huge salt lake, it was really interesting sight and I wished we could have stopped there. The bus arrived to Nevşehir bus station where I changed to minibus for the last 20 minutes to Göreme (minibus was included in the price, ask your driver what is the right minibus because there are some cheaters on the station). The views were amazing when we got closer to Göreme. I didn't expect that the town was also full of these fairy chimneys. I walked to my hostel and I realised on the way that 90% of the people in this town were tourists, and of them 90% were Asians but surprisingly I didn't care about this (like in Ubud I think touristness ruined it). I stayed in a place called Nomad Cave Hotel. They had one dorm room for 12 people but on my first night there were only 3 people with me there so it was really peaceful. Hotel was really nice and I recommed it to everyone! I went to at a restaurant and that was all I did that day. Rest of the day I was hanging out at the hotel and talked with other travellers.

Next day it was time for sightseeing. But first I stopped at one tourist office to buy tour to Mount Nemrut. I had wanted to visit this mountain since child and when I heard about the tour I wanted to take it immediately. The tour was 3 days, 2 nights, including all tickets, transportation & food and costed 180 Euros which in my mind is very good price. The tour was going to start next morning. After buying it I walked to the Göreme Open-Air Museum. On the way I made couple extra walks to take pictures of the amazing landscape. Weather was really hot that day, and I think it was only day I used sunscreen. Göreme Open-Air Museum is an area full churches carved in the rocks. Some of them have lots of frescoes, some just few. The place is worth of visit but it was really packed with tourists when I visited there. You had to line in to almost every church and wait while the tour guides were explaining the frescoes, good thing in that was that I got all that information free! For one of the churches you have to pay extra fee and it is really worth it. It had the best frescoes and not many other tourist because of the extra fee. After touring around I walked back to Göreme and took minibus to Uçhisar, town next to Göreme. The drive was only 10 minutes and the distance is walkable but it's uphill so I wasn't really in to that. In Uçhisar I went to see the Uçhisar castle, which is the highest point in Cappadocia. Eventhough it is called castle, it is not man-made building but one of the rock formations which has been carved full of caves. The views from the top are amazing but climbing down the stairs afterwards can be quite exciting. I recommed visiting the castle.
When I came back to hostel our room got 4 new inhabitants. I decided to go eat first with one of them and then after that we all went for beer with group of consisting people from Finland, USA, England, South Africa, Australia & Slovenia. It was really nice evening with interesting persons.

Next morning it was time for the tour. After amazing breakfast that the hotel offered I got picked up by the tour company. We went to pick up all the others who were also joining and then we were on the way. Our group consisted of 6 persons: me, one guy from Hong Kong, one guy from Australia, 2 women from Taiwan and one woman from Iran. Our first stop was old caravanserai in small village of Karadayı. It had just been renovated so it looked really clean. Funny thing was that inside the old camel room it was still smelling like camels. There was old lovely lady guarding the place with couple children, they were quite excited to see foreign people. Then we had long drive ahead. We were driving in quite amazing landscapes through Taurus Mountains. Our guide said we can stop whenever we want to but it would have been all the time because the views were amazing all the time. We stopped for lunch in small place called Tekir which I heard is famous for fish food (and it's middle of mountains???). After some driving we arrived to city of Kahramanmaraş were we had famous ice cream called dövme dondurma and it was super delicious! We didnät had more time to see the city but it was located quite interestingly on hillside. After that we had still some hours of driving and then we arrived to our final destination of the day, the city of Kahta. We checked in to our hotel and then had dinner and after that it was time for sleep as we would have really early wake up next day. Before falling asleep I watched some Georgian Idol from tv; the hotel had quite interesting channel options.
 Wake up call was at 3am so I think I had nice 4 hours of sleep or less. Then it was time for ride up to Mount Nemrut. When we arrived to the car park we had still lot of time until the sunrise so we had some tea before walking up to the summit. Mount Nemrut is famous for it's artificial summit amd it is believed to be the grave of Antiocus I Theos of Commagene and some of his family members. There are 2 man-made terraces on the summit which are decorated with statues of king Antiocus himself and Greek gods. We first went to the eastern terrace and waited there for the sunrise. There were other tourists too, some part of group tours, some came with their own transportation. Sunrise created interesting light on the statues but unfortunately my camera is not professional enough to capture those kind of lights. After the sun had risen we visited the western terrace where the statues are in better conditition. After that it was time to walk back down. Driving down the mountain was also quite interesting experience. There was no fences between the road and the canyons and sometimes you had to go quite close to the edges. Or pass sheep and cows. We stopped to see ruins Arsameia and the Roman time Septimius Severus Bridge. When we arrived to hotel it was time breakfast, short resting and then drive towards the city of Şanlıurfa, which for short is known as Urfa.

Most of the driving went by sleeping. On the way we stopped to see Atatürk dam which built on Euphrates River. We also stopped at Göbeklitepe which is an archaelogical site, newly opened for visitors. Göbeklitepe is the location of the oldest religious buildings made by humans in whole world and they even could be the oldest any buildings made by humans. Research is still going and there were many archaelogists working at the site when visited there. It looks mostly just pile of stones but there are some very fine carvings. And the views from the hill are nice too. After walking around the site we drove the last kilometres to Urfa.

At Urfa we left our stuff at our hotel and then went for lunch. I ate eggplant which was filled with lamb meat, it was delicious! After lunch we started to walk around the city. Soon I realised that this city was quite different from Istanbul and Ankara. There were not other tourists to be seen and everybody was staring our group. I got last time this much looks in Indonesia. We visited the famous fish pools and mosques around them, they're located in a park which is full of locals, especially women with children. Then we walked through the bazaar, had some drinks in café, and then went to see the oldest mosque in the city. After that sun was already getting down and we went back to our hotel. From my hotel room I could see a wedding party in neighbouring building and unfortunately I also could hear it. We had dinner in the hotel restaurant and then it was time for bed for everybody eventhough we planned earlier to go walk around to see Friday night life in Urfa. But I needed sleep and it would be again tomorrow early wake up.
On the drove back to Göreme we only stopped to eat in Tekir again like on the way to Nemrut. We arrived to Göreme in the afternoon. I went to the same hostel I stayed before. When I went to have dinner I met one of the guys from our tour group and so went together to eat. My hostel room was full of Koreans who didn't have any respect for the people who were already sleeping. Next morning I woke up early, backed my things and went to wait for the bus to Ankara. While I was waiting I got to see the sky full of hot-air balloons, very interesting sight. In Göreme it's popular to go see sunrise from a balloon but I skipped it because it's expensive. Bus came and I was on my way to Ankara (with a change in Nevşehir again).
In Ankara I had the same bed in the same hostel as last time I was in the city. It was late afternoon when I arrived so there was no time for sightseeing anymore. I went to walk around to find pharmacy which was quite hard task on Sunday evening. All the pharmacies I saw were closed. I had dinner and then went to ask help from my hostel. They gave me directions to a pharmacy which was open and again it was nice to try explain what was wrong with and what I need. It helped a lot that I had written the key word up: ishal. Yep, my stomach finally had problem with Turkish food. Next day I went to visit in Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. I took metro to the nearest stop and I walked from there. All guide books say that it's hard walk but I found it very easy (and I'm in bad shape) and the neighbourhood you have to walk through has some old buildings which is nice sight in mainly modern Ankara. Museum was partly closed but there was still some nice things to see, I liked the special exhibition of Troyan jewellery. There was American tourists group same time with me and I followed them to get free tour. After I had enough of Hittite carvings I started to walk towards
Anıtkabir, the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of Turkish Republic. It is long walk and not easy to walk but at least you can see lot of the city during the walk. I for example passed the largest mosque in Ankara, Kocatepe Mosque. The mausoleum was very refreshing place after walking through the busy city. Large parks surrounds it and the park is surprisingly quiet. The mausoleum is huge complex and it includes of museum about Atatürk. I really recommend visiting it, the most interesting place in Ankara and the Roman architecture of the mausoleum attracted me. After walking around the complex I took metro back to the hostel where I just picked up my stuff and then it was time for bus station again. At the station I took a bus towards the town of Safranbolu.
I arrived to Safranbolu's bus station around midnight and one staff member from my hostel came to pick me up. So nice service from them! I stayed in Efe Guest House with bunch of Asian tourists, I was the only western tourist there. In the morning I went visit in house museum and then walked up to the hill fortress to see the views over the small town. That was it basically. There is not much to see in Safranbolu. After walkign around I had lunch and then I went back to hostel. I was little stressed out because I needed to do my course selection for the university at the same time so I spend rest of the day at the hostel doing that. The hostel owner made dinner and to my surprise the 2 Taiwanese woman from my Nemrut tour were also in the hostel having the dinner! Small world! Next day I took bus back to Istanbul and that was my really nice trip in Turkey!

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Exchange in Istanbul: Things I miss

Ok, I haven't been even 2 months in Turkey yet but there is so many things already that I miss from my home country Finland. I will list some of them here. But don't get me wrong, I love to be in here and I would not change it to anything!

- Milk: this is on top of my mind now because today I bought again milk, and I always buy different labels but unfortunately they all taste wrong! All milk they sell here is kept in warm not in fridges so of course it's different in taste than the ones in Finnish fridges. So I think I will stick with ayran (yoghurt & salt water drink) because it is the closest taste of normal milk I have found.

- My apartment: I need privacy and that is only possible in your own apartment. My roommate is nice but I'm used to live alone :)

- Empty public transportation: in Helsinki there is maybe once a week a situation where I can't find free seat in bus or tram, here it is everytime I enter bus, tram or metro.

- Knives: they don't use knives in this country, wtf?!

- In Finland you don't have to ever hear that somebody is too busy serve you even when you have specifically reserved a time from that person to serve you. So no matter if you get early time for your residence permit appointment, they probably will tell you to come again in 2 weeks.

- Oven: there is no oven in our apartment, how can I cook????And also no microwave!

- Cheap tuna: canned tuna is expensive!

- Frozen pizzas: my basic food doesn't exist here, but we don't have oven so I couldn't warm then anywhere anyway...

- Kebab: yes, I'm in Turkey and I miss kebab because lamb meat is not my thing, sorry...

- Toaster: and we don't have toaster. I could of course buy these things but for only half year it's not really necessary

- Cheap & tasty university lunches: I will never ever complain about the taste of the food in Helsinki University's canteens

- University staff: You could think that everybody in university could speak in English but no. So good luck in copy center!

- Computer classes: There is no open computer classes in our university, or possibility to print by yourself

- Public transportation card: there is only one kind of monthly ticket in Istanbul and that is useless unless you travel like crazy

- Spotify: it doesn't work here! And YouTube is slow most of the time!

-  Recycling: doesn't exist here, everything goes in the same trash can and then to street where somebody collects them.'